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My expe­ri­ence with plants in the paro tank

  • AlmightyJoshaeus
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1 week 2 days ago #5945 by AlmightyJoshaeus
Hello all! I have tried a lot of plants in my Parosphromenus ‘sen­tang’ tank and wanted to report on my expe­ri­ences. My tank is cur­rently a stan­dard 20 litre with 40% WC’s with 8 Parosphromenus ‘sen­tang’ (one male, two females, and their five off­spring) fed three times a week with a small amount of microworms and BBS (will even­tu­ally be get­ting grindal worm cul­tures going again). The tank has an LED strip that pro­duces about 1,200 lumens of a mix­ture of 10,000k and blue LED lights, with one red and one green bulb; in the past, I used a 1,200 lumen, 5000k day­light bulb intended to light a room. The water is in the 4’s PH (it climbs slightly over the course of the week, start­ing in the low 4’s and ris­ing to the mid 4’s), has plain ol’ peat moss as a sub­strate (note to aquar­i­u­mists; cap it with some­thing! It floats for days oth­er­wise and makes a mess), and is unheated (oddly enough, temps as low as 16 cel­cius do not bother my paroes at all…I have been com­mu­ni­cat­ing with another fel­low who found that paroes are com­pletely unfazed by and even some­times breed in much lower temps than you would expect them to ever encounter in the wild, and thus keeps them unheated as I do. Anyone’s guess why, espe­cially since choco­late gouramies from the same habi­tats die at those temps). Con­duc­tiv­ity is in the low 40’s at the begin­ning of the week and drops into the 20’s by the end (the tan­nins and acid­ity are pro­duced by decaf­feinated tea bags and sodium bisul­fate respec­tively, which likely con­tain a few nutri­ents the plants rav­en­ously devour…this is my only tank where con­duc­tiv­ity DROPS over the course of the week). Any­how, here we go:
Java moss — Grows slowly but surely
Java fern — Again, slowly but surely
Water sprite — I don’t cur­rently keep this plant. It grows slowly for me and I am very good at break­ing it while doing water changes.
Water let­tuce — Grows fever­ishly, to the point it starts to crowd out duck­weed! :ohmy: Often have to prune this every other week or even every week to pre­vent it from shad­ing out every­thing else. Some indi­vid­ual plants grow to 10 cm across. I use this instead of water sprite.
Duck­weed — Would grow fine except that it gets out­com­peted by water let­tuce. Only exists in small patches as a result.
Cabomba pul­cher­ima, ‘pur­ple cabomba’ — Grows rea­son­ably well if not shaded by some­thing (in which case it becomes quite leggy). Many con­sider this to be a form of Cabomba car­olinia, which should also do well.
Red flame sword Did OK…didn’t die back much, but didn’t put on much mass either. Some swords grow in very sim­i­lar habi­tats in the wild, so a species sword from the Rio Negro may work bet­ter.
Nymphaea stel­lata — Doing quite well, reg­u­larly shoots up pads to the sur­face. My tank has a mesh lid, so the top of the tank is quite attrac­tive to look at with all the water let­tuce and lily pads. Try to limit the pads for the same rea­son as I prune the water let­tuce.
Aponogeton — Got some bulbs, none of which sprouted in any of my tanks. Don’t know if these do well in a paro tank as a result.
Sun­set hygro — Briefly kept some float­ing in a paro tank once. Again, didn’t keep them long enough to deter­mine whether it truly does well.

Any­how, I thought you guys would find this info use­ful. Enjoy!
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