Forum
×
Wel­come to the new forum — decem­ber 2016

WEL­COME TO THE NEW AND UPDATED FORUMDECEM­BER 2016
This forum has been updated in decem­ber 2016, and we wel­come all new and ‘old’ users.
The design is a lit­tle bit dif­fer­ent, but gen­er­ally there are no real changes. If you have any prob­lem, or
sug­ges­tions please let us know

My expe­ri­ence with plants in the paro tank

  • AlmightyJoshaeus
  • AlmightyJoshaeus's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Expert Boarder
  • Expert Boarder
More
2 months 1 week ago #5945 by AlmightyJoshaeus
AlmightyJoshaeus cre­ated the topic: My expe­ri­ence with plants in the paro tank
Hello all! I have tried a lot of plants in my Parosphromenus ‘sen­tang’ tank and wanted to report on my expe­ri­ences. My tank is cur­rently a stan­dard 20 litre with 40% WC’s with 8 Parosphromenus ‘sen­tang’ (one male, two females, and their five off­spring) fed three times a week with a small amount of microworms and BBS (will even­tu­ally be get­ting grindal worm cul­tures going again). The tank has an LED strip that pro­duces about 1,200 lumens of a mix­ture of 10,000k and blue LED lights, with one red and one green bulb; in the past, I used a 1,200 lumen, 5000k day­light bulb intended to light a room. The water is in the 4’s PH (it climbs slightly over the course of the week, start­ing in the low 4’s and ris­ing to the mid 4’s), has plain ol’ peat moss as a sub­strate (note to aquar­i­u­mists; cap it with some­thing! It floats for days oth­er­wise and makes a mess), and is unheated (oddly enough, temps as low as 16 cel­cius do not bother my paroes at all…I have been com­mu­ni­cat­ing with another fel­low who found that paroes are com­pletely unfazed by and even some­times breed in much lower temps than you would expect them to ever encounter in the wild, and thus keeps them unheated as I do. Anyone’s guess why, espe­cially since choco­late gouramies from the same habi­tats die at those temps). Con­duc­tiv­ity is in the low 40’s at the begin­ning of the week and drops into the 20’s by the end (the tan­nins and acid­ity are pro­duced by decaf­feinated tea bags and sodium bisul­fate respec­tively, which likely con­tain a few nutri­ents the plants rav­en­ously devour…this is my only tank where con­duc­tiv­ity DROPS over the course of the week). Any­how, here we go:
Java moss — Grows slowly but surely
Java fern — Again, slowly but surely
Water sprite — I don’t cur­rently keep this plant. It grows slowly for me and I am very good at break­ing it while doing water changes.
Water let­tuce — Grows fever­ishly, to the point it starts to crowd out duck­weed! :ohmy: Often have to prune this every other week or even every week to pre­vent it from shad­ing out every­thing else. Some indi­vid­ual plants grow to 10 cm across. I use this instead of water sprite.
Duck­weed — Would grow fine except that it gets out­com­peted by water let­tuce. Only exists in small patches as a result.
Cabomba pul­cher­ima, ‘pur­ple cabomba’ — Grows rea­son­ably well if not shaded by some­thing (in which case it becomes quite leggy). Many con­sider this to be a form of Cabomba car­olinia, which should also do well.
Red flame sword Did OK…didn’t die back much, but didn’t put on much mass either. Some swords grow in very sim­i­lar habi­tats in the wild, so a species sword from the Rio Negro may work bet­ter.
Nymphaea stel­lata — Doing quite well, reg­u­larly shoots up pads to the sur­face. My tank has a mesh lid, so the top of the tank is quite attrac­tive to look at with all the water let­tuce and lily pads. Try to limit the pads for the same rea­son as I prune the water let­tuce.
Aponogeton — Got some bulbs, none of which sprouted in any of my tanks. Don’t know if these do well in a paro tank as a result.
Sun­set hygro — Briefly kept some float­ing in a paro tank once. Again, didn’t keep them long enough to deter­mine whether it truly does well.

Any­how, I thought you guys would find this info use­ful. Enjoy!
The fol­low­ing user(s) said Thank You: Lit­tle

Please Log in or Cre­ate an account to join the conversation.

  • AlmightyJoshaeus
  • AlmightyJoshaeus's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Expert Boarder
  • Expert Boarder
More
1 month 3 weeks ago #5980 by AlmightyJoshaeus
AlmightyJoshaeus replied the topic: My expe­ri­ence with plants in the paro tank
Hello again! Here’s two more plants I have tried;
Sun­set hygro, hygrophila polysperma — grows fever­ishly if not shaded. Hasn’t been long enough to tell if it gets leggy, but it doesn’t turn pink and loses most of the white veins under paro con­di­tions.
Golden creep­ing jenny — Pos­si­bly an even faster grower under paro con­di­tions than sun­set hygro! No obvi­ous signs of grow­ing abnormalties

Please Log in or Cre­ate an account to join the conversation.

  • AlmightyJoshaeus
  • AlmightyJoshaeus's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Expert Boarder
  • Expert Boarder
More
1 month 2 days ago #6009 by AlmightyJoshaeus
AlmightyJoshaeus replied the topic: My expe­ri­ence with plants in the paro tank
More plants…all of these are in a 40 litre that will soon house P. nagyi. PH is about 5.5 (for some rea­son) and con­duc­tiv­ity is in the high 40’s microsiemens. Con­di­tions are oth­er­wise sim­i­lar to the prior tank.
May­aca Flu­vi­talis — Grow­ing rapidly in paro con­di­tions with no signs of legginess…no sur­prise from a plant natively from the Rio Negro :)
Water­sprite — I FINALLY have water­sprite grow­ing well in a paro tank, this time by plant­ing the fern on the sub­strate where I’m not break­ing it when­ever I do tank main­te­nance (I put a glass rock on the roots). This is a broader leaved form than than the one I usu­ally try.
Hygrophila corym­bosa ‘sia­men­sis’ — Lost a lot of leaves in shipping…it’s slowly grow­ing, but seem­ingly not as well as the other stem plants I have tried thus far. May remove this one…

Please Log in or Cre­ate an account to join the conversation.

Mod­er­a­tors: Peter Finke
Time to cre­ate page: 0.203 seconds

Users online

  • Jacob
X

Right Click is Disabled

Please respect our image usage rights and do not copy the images found on this web­site with­out prior per­mis­sion. Thank You — The Parosphromenus Project Staff